Nine Days · Five Stops
The Route
We fly into Madrid, loop the green north of Spain by car — Bilbao's art, Rioja's vineyards, San Sebastián's beaches and pintxos — then bookend with one last Madrid night before home.
Madrid
A soft landing after the redeye: an evening in the Barrio de las Letras, a glass of wine and a plate of jamón before the real adventure begins. One night, central and walkable.
Bilbao
Frank Gehry's titanium Guggenheim, the medieval Casco Viejo, Plaza Nueva pintxos, and a dramatic coast — the island hermitage of Gaztelugatxe a short drive away. Two nights.
Rioja Alavesa
Harvest season in Spain's most famous wine country: hilltop Laguardia, cellars beneath the streets, and architect-designed bodegas — Gehry's Riscal, Calatrava's Ysios. Two nights.
San Sebastián
The crescent of La Concha, the world's greatest pintxos bars, more Michelin stars per square mile than almost anywhere on earth. The heart of the trip. Two nights.
Madrid, once more
Back to the capital for a celebratory final night — a rooftop, a last great dinner — before the flight home on Sunday.
Where We're Staying
The Stays
Four of five booked — almost entirely on points. Rioja is held while we watch for a room to open at the Gehry-designed Marqués de Riscal.
Gran Hotel Inglés
Madrid's first luxury hotel (1886), Art-Deco rooms in the literary quarter, steps from Plaza Santa Ana. Deluxe Room. Conf ZO-AX1051-76091
NH Collection Villa de Bilbao
Central on Gran Vía, a comfortable walk to the Guggenheim and the old town. Superior Room. Conf ZO-AX1051-76238
Hotel Viura — Villabuena de Álava
A striking modern "stacked cubes" design hotel in the heart of the wine villages, with a destination restaurant. An alert is watching for a Marqués de Riscal opening to upgrade.
Hotel María Cristina, a Luxury Collection Hotel ★
The Belle-Époque grande dame on the Urumea river, home of the film festival — three minutes from the old town. Deluxe King, Garden View. The splurge stay.
The Madrid EDITION
Ian Schrager's design hotel by Puerta del Sol, with a rooftop pool and bar for the send-off. Superior King. Conf ZO-AX1051-76381
Getting There & Back
Flights
British Airways via London both ways (Premium Economy on the 787s), Iberia for the two hops within Spain. PNR YWTC35 · credited to AAdvantage
BA 170 · PIT 9:50p → LHR 10:05a (787, Premium Economy)
BA 460 · LHR 12:20p → MAD 3:50p — arrive Saturday afternoon.
BA 459 · MAD 12:20p → LHR 1:45p
BA 171 · LHR 4:40p → PIT 7:50p (787, Premium Economy) — home Sunday evening.
The Plan
Day by Day
A loose frame — wine, walks, water, and a few unforgettable meals.
Land & settle
- Arrive midafternoon; check into Gran Hotel Inglés
- Easy first dinner — Casa Alberto (1827 taberna) or the hotel's LobByto. Keep it light; you'll be jet-lagged.
Guggenheim afternoon
- Midday flight to Bilbao
- Guggenheim (Puppy, Maman, Serra) — today, it's closed Mondays
- Pintxos on Plaza Nueva
Coast & a big dinner
- Day trip to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe + the coast
- Artxanda funicular at sunset
- Dinner: Mina or Nerua
Into wine country
- Drive to Rioja (~75 min)
- Afternoon in medieval Laguardia
- Dinner at the Marqués de Riscal restaurant or Viura
Bodegas & villages
- Two winery visits — an architectural icon + a classic Haro house
- Slow morning; vineyards in full harvest color
Etxebarri, on the drive
- Drive Rioja → San Sebastián, with a long lunch at Asador Etxebarri in Atxondo en route (only ~30 min off the direct line)
- Into San Sebastián by evening; check into the María Cristina
- An easy pintxos night in the old town
Getaria & pintxos
- Getaria day trip: Balenciaga Museum + txakoli + Elkano turbot lunch
- La Concha & the Peine del Viento at sunset
- Evening pintxos crawl in the old town
Send-off
- Fly to Madrid; check into The Madrid EDITION
- Celebratory dinner + rooftop
Fly home ♥
- Midday flight Madrid → London → Pittsburgh; home by evening
The Table
Restaurants
The two standout meals and the can't-miss casual — we'll keep adding as we lock reservations.
Asador Etxebarri ★
Victor Arguinzoniz's wood-fire temple in a green valley — #2 on the World's 50 Best — as a relaxed à-la-carte lunch on the drive to San Sebastián. The meal of the trip.
Auto-booking when October opensElkano ★
The legendary whole grilled turbot in a seaside fishing village — possibly the most "must-do" meal in the region.
To book · restauranteelkano.comRestaurant Marqués de Riscal
Riojan cuisine under Frank Gehry's lit-up titanium roof — the marquee table of the wine country.
To bookPintxos Crawl
Bar Néstor (txuleta & tomato), Borda Berri (rib kebab), La Cuchara de San Telmo (veal cheek), La Viña (burnt cheesecake). No reservations — just go.
Walk-inMina / Nerua
A Michelin-starred dinner in Bilbao — intimate Mina across the river, or Nerua inside the Guggenheim.
To bookMadrid nights
Casa Alberto for the jet-lagged arrival; a rooftop send-off (Oroya / Azotea de Círculo) on the last night.
IdeasMore restaurants to come as we plan.
Things to Do
Experiences
Art, architecture, wine, and the coast. We'll add and refine these together.
Guggenheim Bilbao
Gehry's titanium masterpiece — Koons' flower Puppy, Bourgeois' spider Maman, Serra's steel spirals. Timed ticket; closed Mondays.
Ticket neededSan Juan de Gaztelugatxe
The island hermitage reached by a winding causeway and 241 steps — Game of Thrones' Dragonstone. Free timed ticket required.
Free ticket neededRioja Bodegas
Architect-designed wineries — Gehry's Riscal, Calatrava's Ysios — plus a classic Haro house like López de Heredia or Muga.
Tours to bookGetaria & Balenciaga
A fishing village half-day: the Cristóbal Balenciaga couture museum, a txakoli tasting, and Elkano's turbot.
Day tripLa Concha & Monte Igueldo
The iconic bay, the vintage Igueldo funicular for the postcard view, and Chillida's Peine del Viento at sunset.
StrollLaguardia
A medieval walled hilltop town honeycombed with underground wine cellars — park outside the walls and wander.
ExploreMore experiences to come as we plan.
Loose Ends
Still to Book
- Asador Etxebarri — lunch Thu Oct 1 (auto-watching for the booking window)
- Elkano — lunch Fri Oct 2
- Restaurant Marqués de Riscal — dinner
- Guggenheim ticket (Sep 27) & Gaztelugatxe free ticket (Sep 28)
- Winery tours — Riscal/Ysios + a Haro classic
- Hotel Viura — lock once dates are final (or grab Riscal if it opens)
- Flights · Gran Inglés · NH Bilbao · María Cristina · The Madrid EDITION